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| How to install Best Stoneworks cast stone veneer |
Installation has three main stages: 1. Preparation of the surface. This includes installing a moisture barrier and metal lathe. If the installation is over existing masonry, it includes cleaning the surface. The goal is to prepare a clean and dry surface. 2. Installation or "sticking" the stone. 3. Grouting the joints beween the stone. Some local building codes require a scratch coat of mortar to cover masonry wire, others do not. We believe that it is best to stick the stone directly to the masonry wire, this will create a stronger bond to the wall. If you stick the stone to a scratch coat you will have developed a "cold-joint" that will have less "staying power". Before performing any installation, you should check your local building codes. Do not rely solely on these instructions. Installation on different wall surfaces Plywood or OSB sheathing (the most typical installation) 1. Install a layer of #15 felt roofing paper or masonry Tyvek as a moisture barrier, using either galvanized roofing nails or staples. Make sure the paper or Tyvek is placed over the flanges at windows and doors and under flashing left by other exterior trim installers. 2. Install a layer of galvanized stucco wire. Use 1-inch galvanized nails and staples. There should be nails or staples in the studs every 4 inches. The wire cannot be too tightly attached to the wall -- once the stone is installed it will be supported only by the wire. 3. Apply the stone. 4. Grout. Lightweight sheathing If your wall sheathing has little strength, as with certain insulation board products, you should: 1. Cover the wall with #15 felt roofing paper or masonry Tyvek to create a moisture barrier. 2. Install flat masonry wire or metal lath over the roofing paper. Use 1-inch staples or 1-inch galvanized roofing nails. There should be at least 1 nail every 4 inches, nailed to the studs. 3. Apply a scratch coat of mortar. This will provide additional support. 4. When the scratch coat has dried, stick the stone to it. 5. Grout. Clean and untreated concrete, masonry and brick surfaces 1. Be certain that the surface has not been treated with any release agents. If it has, use muriatic acid and a wire brush to etch the surface. Or, even better, nail masonry wire to the wall. 2. Add a bonding agent to the grout, or apply the bonding agent directly to the wall. 3. Stick the stone directly to the surface. 4. Grout. Existing concrete, masonry and brick surfaces 1. Remove all paint and coatings from the wall. If this proves to be too difficult, apply flat masonry wire and nail with galvanized concrete nails. 2. Stick the stone. 3. Grout. back to top |
When you are installing manufactured stone you can start anywhere on the wall – it is up to you. But we have found that it is easier to maintain the illusion that it is real stone that you are installing if you begin your installation from the bottom of the wall. Keep in mind that the section of the wall that will be most noticeable to a viewer, is the section that is at eye level.
We recommend using Type S masonry cement to stick the stone to your wire, however you should talk to your local distributor for their recommendations.
"Butter" the back of the stone with about one-half to three-quarters inches of mortar. Press and jiggle the piece of stone against the metal lathe until it is securely in place. You should feel the stone ‘seat’ against the wire. If you have trouble getting the stone to stick, add a little bit of lime to your mortar mix.
Grout colors can be varied by using different colored sands, plain or white Portland cement, or by adding mineral colors. You should ask your local distributor or stone mason for their ideas.
Grouting or pointing
We advise that you wait until all of the stone has been stuck before you grout; this will insure a more consistent grout color. You can use the same sand and cement mix for grouting as you used for sticking your stone, but you should use less lime. If you prefer to use a different grout color – ask your distributor for suggestions.
After you have mixed your grout, follow these basic steps:
1. Put your grout into a grout bag, similar to icing bags that bakers use. The bags allow you to easily put the grout between the stones. Use just enough lime in the grout so that you can squeeze the mortar out of the bag. You want the grout to be as hard as possible when it dries. Excess lime will weaken the final bond.
2. Allow the grout to dry until it is firm but still workable. As the grout sets up (becomes firm), use a one-half inch pointer-slicker to tamp the grout evenly into the joints. Temperature and humidity affects the time you have to work the grout. Do not allow loose mortar or mortar spots to set overnight.
3. When the grout is very firm, brush it with a wire brush and then with a whisk broom until it has a smooth, even consistency.
Cleaning the stone
Before you slick and brush your mortar joint, be sure the grout is dry. If the grout is too wet it will run onto the face of the stone causing discoloration, a dulling of the stones color.
If some mud lands on your stone, do not wipe it off immediately; wait for it to dry and then use your wire brush to remove it. This will lesson the stains on the face of the stone.